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EMonk's Poor Man's Lightbar
Posted 3/11/06 by Jason "Emonk" Woods
| EMonk's Poor Man's Lightbar |
vs. |
Kawasaki's Fire & Steel Lightbar |
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The light bar for the V2K (K32001-009) lists for $459.95. Even at
Fremont Motorsports (on eBay), it is $299.99.
What is so special about this
light bar? Nothing. Absolutely nothing. It is the same turn signal
bar you already have, only it has two extra holes drilled in it. The kit
also comes with some wiring, and of course a pair of bullet chrome
driving lights. Is that worth over $450? I don't think so.
I have found a pair
of bullet chrome driving lights for $80 (after taxes or S&H), Vizor Lights V5835. The
lights are 35W and very bright. They are also a very good price!
As for mounting them, I looked at many many options, but decided the
existing rubber mounted front turn signal bar would work great (just
like the F&S bar uses). To mount the lights, I used a pair of
cheap rubber coated 3/4" P clamps from a hardware store. I picked
them both up for $2.10 (you could probably find them cheaper, I didn't
want to take the time). Don't worry about the looks of them (black
rubber), as unless this is a show bike, no one will probably ever see
them (lights cover them up).
So, we are now at $82 for set of chrome bullet lights and
"mounting brackets".
Installed
pictures can be found here.
Expand the P-clamp and put it on the existing turn signal light bar
with the flat spots of the clamps down (to cleat a windshield). Now
mount the lights* on
top (light up, bolt down). The bolt that the lights use is hollow,
so the light's wires will be feed down the bolt. I then routed the wires
behind the light bar and up into the headlight assembly (just like the
F&S bar does). From there you can wire your lights how ever you want
(suggested to use a switch and a relay). The P-clamps will allow up and
down adjustments, and the light itself will swivel for left to right
adjustments. I pointed mine down and to the sides just a bit.
As far as a switch for them, I installed a Pingel
685T switch ($80, thank you partong!, switch can be found here).
I put it on the left side of the handlebars between the grip and the
controls**. Pingel also makes just a toggle switch (687T), and
can be found in the Parts Unlimited catalog or click here.
The toggle switch only is rated at 6A, and two 35W bulbs will
draw 5.83A, so a relay to power the lights is highly
suggested ($5 relay (30A) vs $80 switch (6A) to replace on
failure).
_driving_light_toggle_and_extra_momentary_switch_01%20(Custom).jpg)
Any switch will work (toggle, rocker, lighted, whatever), but I liked
the polished aluminum one from Pingel. Wal-Mart has a wiring kit for
driving lights that costs about $10 and comes with everything you should
need.
The wiring will be a breeze. Since I am doing a "special case" wiring install, your wiring will more
than likely be different than mine (yours will be much simpler).
Just in case of problems with your install, my page also includes the
PDF installation guide for
the F&S light bar.
* - Make sure to switch out the lenses in the lights for the
clear lenses, as they come from the factory with a red tinted lens in
them.
** - The switch I used has a toggle and a momentary on/off
switch. I use the on/off switch for a Taiddan garage door opener
remote. You could also use this extra switch for possible later use
(maybe nitrous? ).
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