Euro Gear Change

Posted 2/7/06 by Ron "RJ" Holthaus

List of things to know:

1. Assuming that you have already drained the oil.... save it back for reuse after the re-assembly to help flush out any contaminants you might have left behind.
2. Be prepared to catch and the anti-freeze during disassembly...I don't know of a good way to do it other than maybe take the bottom hose loose at the water pump prior to putting the bike on a lift so you don't have the jack stand in the way while catching it.
3. Have the proper socket size for the final drive gear nuts.... 36 mm 6point... Impact socket if you can... good and stout.
4. When disassembling the inner transmission cover... watch carefully for the little brass (spring loaded) gear select sensor pin.... I found mine on the floor.
5. The gear change is fairly simple once you get the transfer shaft nuts loose.... I think I strained my milk trying to get the output shaft nut loose.... Left handed thread (which I knew) but without the proper socket (at that time) I used a very large crescent wrench and a cheater pipe.... it finally relinquished it's hold on the shaft at 145 ft. lbs. of torque (but I swear it was more like 200).
6. Judge was right on the final drive shaft being splined just a shade too deep for the gear... there was about 1/32nd or less of play between the gear and the tightened washer and nut........ I have a stash of machine washers / shims on hand for various projects (you can get them at good hardware store) so, I used one that I could just slide over the splines and was the same diameter as the bearing's inner race.... then I carefully ground/sanded/polished etc. the shim till it was the exact thickness I needed to mesh the gears flush with each other.
   NOTE: In the original configuration (if the final drive gear was tight on the shaft) the gears would not mesh exactly flush. Because the gear is not tight it can slop back and forth by the amount of play in the final drive gear on the shaft which seems to be the cause of, or at least adds to, that ka-clunk.. ka-clunk clatter...clatter sound when you are in too high of a gear for your speed.
7. The little washer/shim needs to be removed from the speedometer sensor.... It's a big pain in the ass to get to, as damn near every piece of plastic under the seat and battery needs to be removed to get to it.. The Speedo Will not work with it in!!!
8. The gas tank has to be removed in order to refill the water/anti-freeze lost in the teardown. Just set it back on after filling it because you will want to remove it again after you have run the engine to make sure it is full. You should check the bleeder valve (Next to the filler cap on 04  model) to remove any air in the system. And when filling and warming the engine use  your old oil to flush out any little impurities that may have gotten in the  tranny while it was open..... Then change oil and filter when done.

Anyway, Lucille is back together running real smooth.... No leaks, A lot less ka-clunks..... and stretching her legs with a whole new range of gear ratios. OH, did I mention .... "I LIKE"... She feels like a whole new ride... First gear is very much improved and 4th feels ALMOST like 5th use to...... and 5th seems like a true overdrive.

With the GPS in hand, under the old ratio the speedo reported 76 to 77 when the GPS showed 70.

Now the Speedo indicates 73 to 74 while the GPS shows 70.

Still not exact but a lot closer.... I can live with it. =)