Techclusion TFI Fuel Controller Installation

Before we get started I think that it's important to note that this article is for informational purposes only. I'm not a mechanic, but this installation was easy enough for me to pull off with my limited mechanical abilities. If you have serious doubts about your ability to do this installation, then by all means seek professional help (as in a professional bike mechanic). I take no responsibility whatsoever for any damages done to your bike while doing this installation. Furthermore, there is more than one way to install this unit. This is simply the way that I chose to do it. I am not affiliated in any way with Techlusion or Dobeck Performance.

If you want more information about the Techlusion TFI fuel controller you can find it here.

 

• Techlusion TFI Fuel controller
• Electrical tape
• Corrugated plastic wire sheathing (nice to have)
• Metric Socket set
• Flat head screwdriver
• Philips head screwdriver
• Various sizes of pliers (side cutters, needle nose, etc.)
• Wire strippers
• Soldering iron
• Rosin core solder
• Sharp point manicure scissors

1. Remove the seats and air cleaner.
    
2. Remove the rear bolt holding down the fuel tank.
    
3. Prop up the rear of the fuel tank.
   (The tool kit that comes with the bike is the perfect size for this)
    
4. Slide up the clamp holding the Reed Valve breather hose to the rear cylinder head and pop off the hose.
    
5. Unplug the sensor attached to the breather hose and rotate the hose out of the way.
    
6. Look under the right side of the fuel tank and you'll see the injectors and the wires that lead to them.
    
7. Now you need to find a suitable place to install the TFI unit. I chose to use the tool box Since I've never used the stock tools that came with any of the bikes I've owned. I keep a roll-up tool pouch with some good quality tools in my saddlebags. My thinking is that the tool box is a nice safe dry place to put it. I used the Velcro tape that came with the TFI unit. Others have slipped it under the seat onto top of the battery box, etc.
    
8. Now find a suitable route to run your wires. The red and black wires are power and ground respectively and the blue and grey go to the injector wires that you saw under the fuel tank. I decided not to cut my wires in case I need to move the unit or replace a connector at some later point in time. I just rolled up the excess and stuffed it in the tool box with the unit.
    
9. There's a good grounding point located on the steel bracket that the front seat bar attaches to. There's already a ground wire screwed in there so just add yours.
    
10. Techlusion recommends using the red rear brake light lead for your hot-wire. You'll have to snip off enough electrical tape and insulation to get enough wire visible to attach the T-Tap. When doing your wiring, think ahead and remember to put the clear plastic insulators on the wires BEFORE you crimp or solder the connectors on! (don't ask me how I know this)
     
11. Once you've got the power and ground wires hooked up, you need to run the grey and blue wires from the TFI unit to the two blue wires on the front and rear injectors. It doesn't matter which wire (grey or blue) from the TFI goes on which injector
     
12. You'll need to strip off the insulation from the injector wires to expose enough wire to attach the T-Tap. I used a pair of pointed manicure scissors to do this. It's a tight squeeze under the fuel tank and you need to be VERY CAREFUL in this step so as not to accidentally cut your injector wires. If that happens, you can pretty much plan on removing your fuel tank and breaking out the soldering iron to repair the wire.
     
13. Once you have the insulation stripped back on both injectors you should be seeing something like this. Those two blue wires are the ones you're going to tap into.
     
14. Carefully attach the T-Taps to the wires squeezing them shut with a pair of pliers.
     
15. Now slide the connectors on the grey and blue TFI wires into the T-Taps on the injector wires.
     
16. I bought some plastic wire sheathing for 49 cents per foot to cover the injector wires and keep them together under the fuel tank. I just tried to run my wires as tucked-in and up out of the way as I could.
     
17. I un-clipped a wire guide that I found under the fuel tank and ran my wires through it to keep them up-tight and out of sight.
     
18. Once all the wires are connected and run, It's time to tape everything up and get it tucked out of the way. I wrapped electrical tape back around the insulation that I removed from the brake light hot-lead, and around the T-Tap as well.
     
19. Then I just made sure that my wires were taped up next to other wire bundles and out to the way of the shock absorber.
     
20. The last step was to cut a couple of corners off of the plastic tool box lid on each side of the latch. This allows the wires to feed up through the lid without binding or rubbing. I think it makes for a really clean installation.
     
21. When you turn on the ignition key, the green light over the first pot screw should be flashing. Then when you start the bike and it is idling, all of the lights should be flashing on and off. When you roll on the throttle, the lights should stop flashing and the green light will stay on, then at about 4,000 rpm or so the yellow light under pot 2 should come on. Refer to the instructions from Techlusion (Dobeck Performance) for more detail.
     
22. I'm running a Thunder Hurricane Air Kit and Cobra Speedster Shorts exhaust. I called Dobeck performance (Techlusion) and here are the suggested settings they gave me
    
    1. 3:30
    2. 5:00
    3. 2:30
    4: 4:00
    
    It's winter here now so I haven't had a good chance to get out and test these settings yet. I'll update this page as soon as I do that.